Ethiopia's Historical Route: Lalibela and Beyond

Ethiopia does not fit the Africa stereotype. It is high and cool, with a history stretching back millennia, a unique Christian tradition, and food that divides travellers into devoted fans and cautious beginners. The northern historical route is the best introduction.

Lalibela is the headline. The eleven rock-hewn churches, carved from the living rock in the twelfth century, are still active places of worship. Pilgrims in white robes gather at dawn, chant rises from the trenches, and the smell of incense fills the tunnels. Visit early in the morning and stay for the services.

Gondar, the former imperial capital, is next. The Royal Enclosure contains castles built by successive emperors, and the Debre Berhan Selassie church is famous for its ceiling of angel faces. A few hours north, the Simien Mountains offer dramatic trekking with gelada baboons and lammergeyers.

Axum, once the centre of a powerful trading empire, holds ancient stelae, ruined palaces, and the church that claims to house the Ark of the Covenant. It is a long drive from Gondar, but domestic flights make it manageable.

Ethiopian food is an experience in itself. Injera, the sour fermented flatbread, is served with wats, or spiced stews. Order a mixed vegetarian plate on fasting days and a meat combo otherwise. Coffee lovers should not miss a traditional coffee ceremony.

Travel here requires patience. Roads are improving but journeys can be long; flights connect Addis Ababa, Lalibela, Gondar, and Axum. The altitude is significant, so take it easy the first few days. October to May is the dry season and the best time to visit.